Tuning Blog

Getting to the GOOD stuff here-

(September 14, 2012) OK, I finally am back to get this blog tightened up a little.



Hydrocarbon/Fluro blends are the MAIN types of waxes for high-level training and racing.      There are 3 main types of blends:
Low-concentration Fluro blends, High concentration, and High concentration with Bonus Stuff in them. The bonus is a dry lube such as Molybdenum (or Moly). Graphite is also used in older or lower-cost blends. These 3 types will cover nearly all of your performance waxing needs. A complete wax kit will have a good range of all of them to cover all conditions.

Low Fluro waxes are less expensive and are easier to work with (generally) for most people. Why? Because they mix (adhere) well with prep waxes, and they are cheap enough that people don't tend to skimp on them. If too thin of a layer of wax is applied before a waxing with an iron, it is possible to "spot-glaze" the base... sometimes without even realizing it. When your complete wax job is done however, you will notice the base just doesn't "feel right." Then it takes a lot of work to get the skis fast again.

High Fluro waxes are fairly pricey- usually. You still need to apply enough wax to protect the base from the iron however. A piece of fiberlene between the iron and ski can help spread the heat a bit (which is good), but the fiberlene will also absorb a little of the wax- which is NOT your goal.

So what does Gadget do? I IRON low fluro waxes, but I use a RAY'S WAY waxer for high fluro and moly waxes. The Ray's way waxer PUSHES the wax into the base with pressure and friction. I use very little wax with this method.

So what do you think: is the highest concentration (and highest price) wax always the fastest? No, not always. As snow get colder and drier, fluro gets less and less effective.

What about Moly? Moly adds cost to the wax blend, and the moly takes up space on the base that would be used but the Fluro, so it isn't always faster. Lean towards Moly in dirtier snow, in drier conditions... and SOMETIMES in the wettest conditions.

Knowing exactly when your waxes will be fastest can only be determined by experimenting and testing. That is why any good tech is also his own best Guinea Pig. Sure, racers will help us test and experiment, but they want the techs to sort some things out first.

A ski racer's job is to ski FAST. A tech's job is to give them the FAST Skis!

Full disclosure: I do some testing for RaceWax.com I love the products, so I have offered to help make them better.

 

UPDATE 1/04/13:
I have been weighing skis for a few months now, and I can only conclude those claiming large amounts (150-200 grams) of wax absorption are NOT measuring actual weigh gain. My data and those claims are off by a factor of 1 or 2 orders of magnitude. However, I will also say that I have found extensively waxed skis are faster, smoother, and more fun to ski. Keep waxing, but don't believe extreme claims.



  I am having a little fun at the expense of my Lawyer friends (and family). Since I read everything I can find on this subject, I come across some crazy stuff pretending to be truth. And sometimes, there is a lot of truth (or truthiness) that gets nearly spoiled by some stupid stuff. I will provide pictures and examples. This post may save you some money- if you believe me more than the Snake Oil guys...

  3/31/12: Ok, I am back from waxing around 100 pairs of skis at the J3 Junior Olympics. I worked with some great techs/coaches there.  So what am I talking about in regards to "Snake Oil" guys? Just this: there are more wax companies out there than there is truly good information. Some of the wax companies have been "borrowing" claims from other companies, even going so far as lifting entire paragraphs from each others websites.

My BS test (at this moment): Claims of absorption FAR exceeding what the P-Tex manufacture says is possible. Nobody seems to be calling BS on these claims- EXCEPT ME RIGHT NOW! If you read something like "...we have secrets that allow us to get 150 to 200 grams absorbed into a pair of skis..." know that your leg is being pulled. IF someone wants to run a controlled test with a pair of skis weighing them BEFORE starting their waxing process and then AFTER waxing using a scale accurate to 1 or 2 grams and publish their results showing extreme waxing weight gain, then I will retract my statement above.

Here is the math for wax absorption: 20 (make it 25 to be generous) milligrams of wax per square centimeter of base- MAX- according to Intermontana, the P-Tex manufacturer. So the formula is this .025gram * cm2.  Ski CM2 is this formula: length * width. I will calculate using a 210 DH ski and a 165 Slalom ski. DH ski calculated base area is 1600 cm2. Slalom 1500 cm2.
.025 * 1600 = 40 grams/ski for DH; .025 * 1500 = 37.5 grams/ski for slalom. So there are wax companies claiming 2 to 4 times more wax absorption than the manufacturers say is possible. VERY unlikely, thinks me.

BTW: I do USE 250- 500 grams of wax PREPARING new skis, but I know it isn't all being absorbed. Most of it ends up as large bags of wax scrapings. Then I use those scrapings (along with kindling) in our fireplace to get the wood nice and hot!

Here is a LONG discussion of wax absorption from an engineer I really respect: http://www.alpineskituning.com/hotwax_myth.pdf

Before I prep skis for next season I will purchase a scale and do my own study. Look for the results here.

Lots to write...(9-15-12)

Testing (done right), is quite involved, difficult, and technical. I test informally myself, and I have been trying for a couple of years now to setup a test (or series of tests) so that more of us in the PNSA can get good testing info. I haven't given up- I am still trying.

The Summit at Snoqualmie has been very supportive of my efforts so far, and I think we may be able to establish a series of tests there. Stay tuned...

Greasing, Juicing, etc. Here is where everyone hopes to get that Extra Speed Boost. Below is the PNSA J3 coaches and Juice Crew in Big Sky. To "Juice" 40+ pairs of speed skis (the team quiver) took 3 of us a bit over 2 hours- at sprint pace.


Overlay selection is often more critical and trickier than even wax selection.



I won't attempt to cover all aspects, but THE BEST way to be consistently fast (with overlay) is to use it frequently and to be very comfortable with the system of waxes and tools you use. Yes, this costs more than saving the overlay for the "big race," but if you don't know what you are doing on race day, you could spent a lot of money AND make the skis slower (not faster). I know this from personal experience.

Also- racers need to be used to the glide of top-end waxes, just as they need to be used to their equipment (skis and boots). If they hit a jump going 10 mph faster in the race than in training, they may not react properly.

Bottom line: IF you are going to dive into overlays, budget some extra $$ for "research and development," or else stick with waxes that are easier to work with. Parents should experiment on their own skis as well as their racers' skis- so that they KNOW what the racers are feeling.

Sidewalls on race ski (as delivered from most factories) normally need some attention. The plastic and bottom layer of metal is usually even with the metal edge- which can make sharpening and/or beveling the ski difficult or impossible. The finish is often also quite rough, which can increase friction when the ski is at a high edge angle. Also, most skis come with a side edge bevel set somewhere between 1-2 degrees- and you may want something different.

When we get new skis, prepping the sidewall is usually the second thing I do- right after I deburr the base edge. Why do I work on the sidewalls so soon? Because they will NEED to be done, and working on them necessarily rubs on the base a bit. If the sides are done first, the bases suffer less tool-wear and abuse.

Here are the tools I use to prep the sidewall and set the bevel:
Sidewall puller
7-8 degree Side Edge Guide
3 degree Side Edge Guide (or 1 degree for a few skis)
100 grit sanding sponge
Polishing Cloth
Paste wax.

Do your work in this order:



1.)
So first, get out your Sidewall Puller and set it up. There are 2 screws on the side of most unit that determine the depth of the cut- that is- the amount of material that is removed in 1 pass. Set these initially to where NO MATERIAL is being removed. Then adjust both screws a little until the cutter JUST contacts the base. Then turn the adjusters the same direction about 1/4 turn. This is about how much material you want to remove. You will be able to reach and sharpen the side edge, but you will also preserve much of the sidewall of the ski- and the strength the side wall provides.
2.) Pull ALL FOUR sidewalls. It is always good shop practice to do all of 1 stage on the pair of skis before moving on. That way, you won't forget a stage on 1 ski- or just 1 edge.


3.) Blacken the edges with a Sharpie pen. You will be able to see how much metal you are removing this way- and where you are removing it. Repeat on the other 3 edges.


4.) Tape over your bindings to keep out metal.


5.) File the edge with your 7-9 degree bevel- to smooth back the top of the edge.
6.) Re-Blacken all four edges.


7.) Get out your REAL side bevel guide now (or reset your guide if you only have one) and set the edge to the desired bevel. For most racers age 10-15, 3 degrees of bevel works well. For younger racers, 1-2 degrees is more forgiving and more durable. For those over 15, and skiing on constantly icy, boiler-plate conditions, 4-5 degrees works better.

8.) Now that your edges are roughed-in, I like to sand the sidewall smooth. The cuts from the puller and the high-angle filing will blend together this way.
9.) Finally, apply wax to the sidewall for the fastest finish.

Go Fast!!

If you spend ANY time tuning, you nearly immediately find yourself with a frustratingly dull Scraper. What to do- what to do... Gadget has a fix for you: The Scraper Gadget! This simple tool will become one of your most used tools- that is my guess. Every time I wax (now), I sharpen my scraper and it makes tuning a pleasure.

I have 3 of these, I have made a few for friends, AND I made some for CMAC. If you want one, Andy Cooley has a few available for a small donation to the FFE. If there is demand, I will make a few more.



The great folks at Tognar.com like my Scraper Gadget and have published the plans here: http://www.tognar.com/2011-tuning-tips-winner/    Tognar.com is one of the best places on the net to get ski tools, wax, and boot fitting supplies. Check them out.

Because I tune everyday,  most of our skis don't need much work. This is EXACTLY what I do on a daily basis to keep our skis fresh, and I will include pictures of EXACTLY what equipment I use to do it.

One disclaimer: This is a good, quick, easy tune- but after 4-5 days of tunes like this, I normally do a bit more. I will end this article with the "bit more" that I do.

1. Deburr/sharpen Side Edge. I set almost ALL of our skis to a 3 degree side bevel for simplicity and consistency. I grab a "Side of Beast Pro" 3 degree guide and the coarsest diamond stone I have (generally a DMT extra-EXTRA coarse 100 grit) and a shot of SVST Secret Sauce. I then work back and forth along 1 side edge until it feels and sounds consistent. If there are a few particularly damaged areas, I spend extra time on them until they are smooth. Then I repeat on each of the other 3 edges on the pair of skis, cleaning and re-lubing the stone between each edge.
   
2. Deburr/smooth Base Edge. I use base bevels from .5 degree all the way up to 1.5 degree, but I always use a fine diamond stone for this work. My preferred setup is a FSK sleeve and Moonstone 600 grit 4 inch stone. DRY/CLEAN ALL EDGES COMPLETELY WITH A PAPER TOWEL before moving to step 3.
   
3. Prep Base: I use a coarse brass brush (not a roto-brush) for this. I make 2-3 tip-to-tail passes on each ski followed by a plastic scraper. That's IT!
   
4. I use a Toko Universal Low Fluro wax for this. I drip plenty of wax (10-15 grams average per  race ski, 20-25+ on the fat skis) on to the ski, then make 3 passes with the iron. If there are any dry spots, I add a little more wax. After 1 minute, I begin to SOFTLY scrape the wax with a plastic scraper, starting with the edges. Then I brush softly with the brass brush. 2-3 tip-to-tail brush strokes are enough.
   

You Are DONE!!   With practice, this should take only 10-15 minutes a pair.


Apron, Wax, Iron, 600 stone, 80 stone, SKS base guide, Beast side guide, Scraper Gadget (in a rich cherry finish) and Swix Brass Brush.

A couple notes: The Toko wax I use seems to only be available currently through Tognar.com. It is the hardest, widest temp range wax with decent glide I have (yet) found. It is also one of the cheapest- which is great when you wax all the time.

The "bit more" every 4-5 days:

1. Edges: After several days of smoothing damage, you may need to restore sharpness. I use a file for this work. Specifically, I use a medium SWIX World Cup file. 2-3 passes per side edge with this file is MORE than enough almost always. Be sure to stone the SIDE  and BASE edges first to remove damage, and stone the BASE edge after to remove the working burr.
   
2. Base: It may be time for some p-tex candle repair, and you should also brush the base thoroughly with a coarse Brass Brush to clean out and restore the structure. After that, scrape with a sharp scraper and wax-wash (warm scrape) with the softest wax you have. This will clean out much of the dirt and junk collected in the base.
   
3. Top and sides: I use a sanding sponge to remove cuts and burrs along the top edges and sidewalls. This may NOT make the skis any faster, but it sure is nice to NOT have the skis cut hands and/or clothes!
   

Swix World Cup (medium) file, sanding sponge, p-tex candle, SVST Secret Sauce

All this work (the bit more) can be done in about 30 minutes with practice.

Ok, I have heard rumors that I'm not "giving up the goods" or that I'm not revealing my fastest tricks or something. The truth? YOU CAN'T HANDLE THE TRUTH!!

The truth of it is that I am ALWAYS experimenting with new materials, tools, and techniques. I show people the methods I have tried extensively and proven. I don't show you my LATEST stuff, because not everything works out.

You want "the latest" Gadget Tuning Tricks? Hang out in the shop with me for a while. Bring music and adult beverages. Then DON'T TELL ANYBODY what you learned!!

Big Speed is Secret Stuff right? Usually no, it isn't. Mostly it is someone doing the Right Stuff Repeatedly- and sweating the details.

Q: You said something about tuning and waxing everyday. You are kidding, right?! I have a LIFE you know- including a wife and 3 kids!

A: Yeah- sorry: Gadget IS a Tuning Nut- hence the blog (and fictitious conversations with my vaporous followers). It is possible to maintain skis once a week (if say skiing 3 days/week), and still have pretty good performance. Does this help?

Q: I suppose that is better than every day. What do recommend that I do once a week?

A: I thought you would NEVER ask! First of all, try to wipe-down your skis after every ski day. High carbon steel edge can begin to rust in just a few hours if left wet. It is easier to prevent rust than to remove it. AT LEAST once/week, carefully stone the base and side edges to remove burrs, then stone the side edge to improve sharpness. Finally, brush and scrape the bases and apply a universal temperature, low fluro wax by ironing. When slightly cool, remove the wax from the edges, but leave the excess on the base. This is NOT an ideal prep, but the ski will perform fairly consistently, turn smoothly, hold well, and glide easily. Leaving the excess wax on the base speeds the prep time and extends the protection of the bases for a longer period.

 

But you will still find my skis (and my son's) are tuned to a near-race level on a daily basis. If you can find (or make) the time, there is a benefit to sweating the details.

 

For those of you new to racing, it is critical that a racer's skis are ALWAYS in good shape. They should be waxed every day, and the edges should be smooth and burr-free. If you only do Race Day prep and don't wax/tune the rest of the year, you risk falls and disappointment. Why? Because maintained skis work so differently from those that aren't. Give your racer the best chance of success by keeping their skis tuned and waxed.

 

This series will describe all that you need to do to send your racer out on Fast Skis for that big race. Please write if you have any questions and Have Fun!